Goi La "Gỏi lá" is a specialty that tourists can not miss if they
have chance to set their foot in this land, Kon Tum - north pole of Tay
Nguyen (Tây Nguyên)
"Goi la "
"Goi
la " came into being in Kon Tum town about 15 years ago. A standard
"Goi la " must consist of 40 to 50 kinds of leave including: paederia
scandens, Polyscias fruticosa, Ficus racemosa, Brassica campestris,
Perilla, Garcinia oblongifolia, Hong ngoc, Oxalidaceae, Psidium
guajava, Phyllanthus acidus, Mangifera, and other herbal species such
as: onion, lamiaceae, Ocimum basilicum Labitae, etc. Among these
leaves, there are three must-have types of leaves: paederia scandens,
Polyscias fruticosa, and Ficus racemosa which both give flavor and
function as wrapping material in rolls. It is tougher to find these
leaves in sunny season, only about 15-20 types of leave. As a result,
you should reserve this specialty in order to enjoy the best since it
takes time to be well-prepared.
"Goi la " should be had with special paste
"Goi
la " implies an interesting cooking and enjoying method. Laying on the
table is a "forest of leaves" with a big bowl of mixture which is made
of wort, crushed shrimp, minced pork, egg-shrimp paste, and fermented
steamed rice. This mixture is then cooked into saffron paste. Wort
should be made of newly-brewed glutinous rice. Shrimp should neither
too big nor too small; dry shrimp can be used instead of fresh one.
Pork (half fat half lean) is minced. Cook must be able to sense the
flavor to take the pot out of fire. Pot cover is to be closed tightly
as soon as aroma of the pot is coming out. Every time, this paste is
ladled out, it should be executed as fast as possible and then
immediately cover the pot. This paste smells so strange. Smell is
either like a brine-cooked or boiled shrimp. So the smell of pork. Egg
smells like to be either fried or boiled. All are mixed with aroma of
fermented steamed rice to make a really special flavor that only this
dish has.
In order to enjoy this
specialty, leaves are funnel-shaped rolled up to contain other leaves
and spices accordingly. Particularly, each time of rolling with
different kinds of leave (50 kinds), you may find typically different
tastes and flavor such as: sour, chilly, bitter, tasty, fat, aromatic,
etc which are so much strange. "Goi la " will be much better if it is
had with a special kind of wine which is brewed with polyscias
fruticosa's roots. Aroma of the wine seems to moderate all kinds of
young leaves.