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The shifting sands of Mui Ne Phan Thiet Vietnam
The shifting sands of Mui ne Phan Thiet: Four years ago, the general manager of White Sands Resort in Glenn McVeigh left the big city behind for a life on the beach. Frank Patterson talks to him about the rapid changes he's seen and his concerns for the local environment.
When city folk arrive at the beach, it's usually with an audible sigh of relief. Thank heavens for the beach, you say. After four years working in Mui Ne Glenn McVeigh admits sometimes he feels the same way when he gets to the city. Life can be quiet here, but that suits him just fine.
"I first came to Vietnam 10 years ago with the intention of choosing either Saigon or Hanoi to return to live, but my underlying goal was to then find a job at the beach, which in those days were very limited," he explains. "Then nearly four years ago, I received a call from a friend in Hanoi Vietnam saying there was a job opportunity in Mui Ne, and here I am."
Sitting
in White Sands Resort's beach bar, sipping a cold Larue beer and
overlooking the gorgeous bay in the sunshine, I can't say I blame him.
When McVeigh first arrived in Mui Ne Vietnam it was a quiet, sleepy
little place. Then there were a smattering of resorts, a couple of
restaurants and shops; there were plenty of vacant blocks, which were
home to grazing cows and grass huts. There were no street lights,
sidewalks or taxi companies.
That was when Mui Ne Phan Thiet was still a secret; a name whispered by one expat to another, the perfect getaway, a piece of heaven, where all you had to worry about was whether it was crab or lobster for lunch.
For many people of course it's still that way, though comparatively speaking McVeigh describes the current atmosphere along the main stretch of Mui Ne Phan Thiet, where a glut of resorts has sprung up, as "frantic".
"It has been an amazing experience to have lived through the rapid change of the last four years. Now restaurants and shops line the roads and neon signs illuminate the road," he says.
Mui Ne Vietnam has built a strong reputation as a luxury resort town. Also in recent years a new phenomenon has seen an influx of kitesurfers taking advantage of the steady wind which makes for ideal kitesurfing conditions. Where once there were a few kitesurfers outside the Sailing Club Resort, when I ventured down late in the afternoon, the sky was filled with dozens upon dozens.
While great fun for the kitesurfers, Mui Ne Phan Thiet actually isn't a very wide beach. McVeigh agrees that the kitesurfing trend is not ideal for those who want to plonk down on the sand and sip cocktails in peace and quiet.
"They have little regard for any other tourists as they take over the beach to lay out their kites and surf dangerously close to the swimmers near the shore," he says. "It's an accident waiting to happen, as there are no safety regulations or any form of control."
The pace of development along Mui Ne's coastline has been rather overwhelming.
"It's pleasing to see the local economy booming and economic opportunities arising for the locals that were unheard of 10 years ago," says McVeigh. "However it has come at a heavy cost to the environment, with beach erosion being the major concern."
"The tallest resort used to be the same height as the palm trees, but now there are six storey buildings right next to the road," he adds. "I'm worried the development is placing too much pressure on the environment. How popular would this place be when the beach has been replaced by a long brick wall to protect the properties that have been built - and are still being built - too close to the water? How many tourists can one stretch of beach handle?"
"Mui Ne Vietnam is only one bay along the beautiful coast line of Vietnam. I only hope that the mistakes that have been, and are still being, made here, won't be repeated in other areas.
"Vietnam only has one chance to get this beach development right and from what I have seen here great potential has been lost."
However McVeigh is quick to praise the smaller investors creating restaurants or guesthouses with simple but attractive bamboo or wooden structures, which are more in tune with the original charm of Mui Ne as the exotic getaway. Rather than large multi-storey investments these simple structures are also in harmony with the local environment.
In the meantime McVeigh is extremely happy down at White Sands Resort, which is further along the coastline, away from the major developments, beach erosion and kitesurfing.
"We're fortunate here at this resort, we are in a different, smaller bay to the main strip of Mui Ne," he points out. "We don't really have the same environmental problems and the resort is off the main road, so we don't hear the traffic noises. Here I feel totally isolated and enjoy the silence except for sounds of the ocean and the birds."
"We still have cows that walk down the beach and a fleet of fishing boats permanently in front of the resort. I never tire of that view as it is a constant reminder of where I am and how lucky I am to have a great job in this great country."
"This is still a beautiful ,place,. which is unique to Vietnam and a great place to totally relax, enjoy the year round good weather, eat fresh seafood and be re-energised by the fresh air straight off the sea."
While further up the coast the beach is crowded with weekenders, coaches race down the narrow country road, White Sands remains tranquil, peaceful, heavenly; it seems the original essence of Mui Ne is still alive and in good hands.
(Source: Timeout)
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