Thanh Duyen pagoda is located in a serene and magical spot on the side of Mount Tuy Van in Thua Thien-Hue province.
The
foot of Mount Tuy Van begins in Dong Am village, 50km from the centre
of Hue, which lies to the east. It is an imposing mountain that looms
over the surrounding landscape. From the top you can see the whole
province of in Thua Thien Hue and the great blue of the Eastern Sea.
I am not here to trek to the top, however, but to take a leisurely
stroll around and I am fortunate to have the local historian Ho Tan
Phan as a guide. We follow a path that skirts Cau Hai lagoon and passes
a small market before reaching a carved stele with Chinese characters
that read simply, Mount Tuy Van. We gaze up and admire the view before
we visit Thanh Duyen pagoda.
In the 17th century the Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu came across this tranquil
spot and was so inspired by the splendid scenery and imposing Mount Tuy
Van that he decided to have a small pagoda built there. The modest
pagoda was badly damaged in a war before being redeveloped by King Minh
Mang in the 19th century and named Thanh Duyen. His son, King Thieu Tri
was also enamoured by the magnificence of Mount Tuy Van and Thanh Duyen
pagoda. He even composed a poem to express his admiration for the
breathtaking landscape around it.
This poem was carved on a limestone stele and sheltered in a small
pavilion right at the foot of the mountain. The pagoda is a complex of
buildings which have been laid out according to the principles of feng
shui. The pagoda leans on the majestic mountain while facing the placid
and spacious waters of Cau Hoi lagoon. The mountains on the far side of
the lagoon also serve as a large screen that shields the pagoda from
the elements.
We make our way towards a well named Cam Lo. This is not a typically
round well that you would find in most villages in Vietnam but a
square-shaped one. Phan believes that the well is in fact a relic of
the Cham people who dwelled in Thua Thien Hue province as most ancient
wells belonging to the Viet kings, which were excavated in places like
the citadel of Thang Long (in Hanoi), are round.
We continue our tour passing by the main temple of Thanh Duyen pagoda
under the frafrangipani trees which are in full bloom. We poke our
heads in on the monks’ residence and admire the archways of the other
temples. The tower of Dieu Ngu juts up into a dense canopy of high
trees.
The tower was built with a wonderfully simple but refined design.
Behind Dieu Ngu tower, stands Tien Sang pavilion, which is a perfect
spot to rest and gather your thoughts. We sip tea and speak of the
beauty of nature that would inspire poetry. Sadly both the tower and
the pavilion have been defaced with graffiti and tags that have been
scrawled mindlessly across the walls.
“Their ignorance is destroying our valuable heritage,” says Phan
despondently. Thankfully the peaceful panorama of Cau Hai lagoon and
beyond cannot be harmed. I gaze out over the fields and spot Mount Linh
Thai (also called Mount Turtle) to the north east and, indeed, from
this vantage point it does look like a giant turtle crawling towards
the sea.
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8 Days Vietnam Vacations with Luxury Travel Vienam
Vietnam Overland 15 days/ 14 nights
Vietnam Experience14 days/ 13 nights
Day 01: Arival , cruising in Bai Tu Long bay
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